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travel / travel magazine / may08

Festivals

Boogie nights (page 3)

Don’t be fooled by the name: the folk fest is not all tie-dye and protest songs anymore. Buffy Sainte-Marie, one of Canada’s original folkies, gave an unforgettable performance last year, but so did hip hop turntablist Buck 65. With 75 or more music workshops and mini-concerts to choose from over the weekend, you can drift between Inuit throat-singing and electric blues. There’s soul, country, Celtic, world beat, rockabilly, rock ’n’ roll and even some singer-songwriters, such as Springsteen-Dylan amalgam Dan Bern. During a 1999 concert, Bern heard Loudon Wainwright III playing at the stage next door and asked his audience to join him there for a song. He toddled off like the Pied Piper and hundreds of us followed. After a song, Bern led us all back. That’s the charm of the festival: the environment is controlled and predictable, but the artists are not, and there’s just enough tension to make it interesting.



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FESTIVAL CITY
Getting there No parking is available at Gallagher Park, where the Edmonton Folk Music Festival is held. However, bus transit service goes right by the park in all directions. Call (780) 496-1611 for information on park-and-ride locations.

Staying there Hostel-style accommodations are available on-site at The Bennett Centre. Families are welcome. Call (800) 664-6630 or (780) 468-1439, or e-mail bennett.centre@epsb.ca. Some downtown hotels offer accommodation and festival passes. Go to www.staytoplay.com for information. Or contact Edmonton Tourism at (800) 463-4667 or (780) 496-8400 for information on hotels within walking distance of the festival.

Playing there The sun seems to never set in Edmonton during the summer months. Known as Festival City, the Alberta capital rocks while the weather permits. It hosts a fringe theatre festival, a street performers festival, an art and design festival, a Shakespeare festival and a long list of others. For information, call Alberta Tourism at (800) 661-8888 or visit www.edmontonfolkfest.org, click on Festival Info, then on Other Alberta Festivals.

Years ago, Dan and I would study the program, apply military- style logistics, then race walk between seven side stages and 25-plus food vendors prior to the evening’s mainstage shows. I had a vague notion of a “children’s area“ near the entrance only because I’d pass it on my way to the beer tent. Now my buddies and I meet at the playground and reminisce about frolicsome youth while our children eat sand and ride their candy floss highs. Mopey teenagers in black jeans and checkered Vans - caught between adolescence and adulthood - linger on the periphery, thumbing text messages.

“It’s like camping, concert and amusement park all in one,“ says Linda Grant, a teacher from Queen Charlotte City in Haida Gwaii. We’re standing in line at one of a half-dozen huge, inflatable jumping pens for kids. Our children are giddy from practice jumping. She went to school in Edmonton and, like Bill Howard, comes back often with her two sons to attend the folk fest. “It’s a very family-oriented thing. I love this kind of music, and my kids love music, so it’s something we can do together.“

We are all kids here. We don the gaudy duds that hang in the back of our closets and play dress-up amid a colourful, swirling serenade. Chriz Miller, 27, calls it “a temporary autonomous zone.“ Miller, who juggles flaming balls on strings, is a Toronto resident from Innisfail, Alta. “It’s one of the most accepting, inclusive groups you’ll ever find,“ he says. “People let their hair down in a way they can’t otherwise.“

So if your hair has been shackled, set it free. Dance under the stars like a Cameroonian. The Edmonton Folk Music Festival might seem like an anomaly to outsiders who still think we’re all Stockwell Day conservative or Marlboro Man ranchy, but for Alberta’s increasingly young, urban, educated, multicultural masses, it’s four days of folkie abandon. And if you can manage a child-free sabbatical, even for one night, all the better.


Writer Lisa Gregoire and photographers John Ulan and Ian Jackson, of Epic Photography, are all based in Edmonton.

GUITAR TRAILS
Cross-country music festivals


BRITISH COLUMBIA
VANCOUVER FOLK MUSIC FESTIVAL JULY 18-20 Held at picturesque Jericho Beach Park, the festival features homegrown and international artists with a sprinkling of hip hop and reggae. www.thefestival.bc.ca

VANCOUVER ISLAND MUSICFEST JULY 11-13
Smaller and younger than its mainland cousin, it is family-friendly, with on-site camping and music on five stages. www.islandmusicfest.com

ALBERTA
CALGARY FOLK MUSIC FESTIVAL JULY 24-27 Held at shady Prince’s Island Park, the festival is starting to build the same fan loyalty as its Edmonton rival. www.calgaryfolkfest.com

SOUTH COUNTRY FAIR JULY 18-20
Expect an intimate camping and musical weekend in historic Fort Macleod, on the banks of the Oldman River. www.scfair.ab.ca

SASKATCHEWAN
REGINA FOLK FESTIVAL AUG. 8-10
Western Canada’s longest-running folk festival is held in Victoria Park, in the heart of downtown Regina, and features independent folk and roots music. www.reginafolkfestival.com

NESS CREEK MUSIC FESTIVAL JULY 17-20
Tiny and tucked away in northern Saskatchewan, the Ness Creek festival has become a favourite among touring musicians. www.nesscreek.com

MANITOBA
WINNIPEG FOLK FESTIVAL JULY 10-13
Launched in 1974 to mark the city’s 100th birthday, Winnipeg’s festival is an unforgettable experience that offers fans two evening mainstages, one showcasing traditional artists, the other alternative folk. www.winnipegfolkfestival.ca

ONTARIO
MARIPOSA FOLK FESTIVAL JULY 4-6 The granddaddy of Canadian folk, Orillia’s four-decade-old Mariposa festival is free to kids under 16. www.mariposafolk.com

HILLSIDE FESTIVAL JULY 25-27
Unfolding over three days in the Guelph Lake Conservation Area, Hillside tends to attract a younger crowd. www.hillsidefestival.ca

QUEBEC
FESTIVAL INTERNATIONAL DE JAZZ DE MONTRÉAL JUNE 26-JULY 6
Montréal’s incomparable jazz festival is an enormous 11-day street festival extravaganza. www.montrealjazzfest.com

NEW BRUNSWICK
LOYALIST CITY FOLK FESTIVAL MAY 29-JUNE 1
Held in Saint John bars, pubs, schools and theatres, it showcases Maritime talent. www.kingstreetentertainment.com/folkfest

HARVEST JAZZ & BLUES FESTIVAL SEPT. 9-14
Every September, Fredericton becomes a world-class music venue alight with global jazz, blues and Cajun music. www.harvestjazzandblues.com

NOVA SCOTIA
ATLANTIC JAZZ FESTIVAL JULY 11-19
Eastern Canada’s biggest music festival draws 450 performers to Halifax every July for a spicy menu of the world’s best jazz dishes, from African trumpeters to firey flamenco. www.jazzeast.com

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND
PEI BLUEGRASS & OLD TIME MUSIC FESTIVAL JULY 4-6 Held in Rollo Bay with the ocean as a backdrop, this music festival fuses American traditional bluegrass acts with homegrown Maritime talent. www.bluegrasspei.com

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR
NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR FOLK FESTIVAL AUG. 8-10
With jigs and reels rolling out into the streets of St. John’s, this festival offers an evening mainstage plus daily workshops in traditional instruments, oral traditions and dance. www.nlfolk.com

YUKON
FROSTBITE MUSIC FESTIVAL MID-FEBRUARY
Hot sounds cancel out Whitehorse’s February deep-freeze at this renowned northern festival, which features local singer-songwriters and other Canadian and American artists. www.frostbitefest.ca

DAWSON CITY MUSIC FESTIVAL JULY 18-20
Dubbed “Canada’s tiny perfect festival,“ by Vancouver’s Georgia Straight, Dawson attracts high-calibre acts such as Bruce Cockburn and fans keen to dance all night under the sun. www.dcmf.com

NORTHWEST TERRITORIES
FOLK ON THE ROCKS JULY 18-20
With its unique blend of northern traditional and international music and accompanying arts, crafts and northern foods, Yellowknife’s lakeside music festival has grown into the biggest summer party north of 60. www.folkontherocks.com

NUNAVUT
ALIANAIT! JUNE 21-JULY 1
With performers flying in from other territories, Alaska, Greenland and Scandinavia, the Alianait! Arts Festival in Iqaluit will be hopping this summer. www.alianait.ca

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