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travel / travel magazine / march 2008

WorldWide
Gone with the wind (page 2)

MAP: STEVEN FICK/CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC
Click map to enlarge
"Hey, Ricky, waddya think about the brothers?" asks Claire as we examine the multimedia exhibits in the visitor centre and museum. "Maybe they didn't get along. Can't ya just hear the argument: 'Wilbur, why do I always have to be the one to pilot this stupid thing?'"

"Nobody likes a whiner," I tell her, pausing to photograph - as instructed by Claire's older brother Jasper, who is away on his own summer quest - the fragilelooking replica of the wood-and-canvas airplane into which poor old Orville strapped himself for that historic first flight. "And siblings, as you well know, seem to take a perverse pleasure in bullying each other."



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Given our own imminent flight plans, we pay particular attention to the aerodynamics of the machine. Outside, on a broad, sandy field, we step off the distances between the stone markers showing the lengths of the first four flights the brothers took. I keep reminding myself that no one was injured during these experiments.


I'M NERVOUS because now, after a quick stop for lunch, we are headed a few kilometres down the road to Kitty Hawk Kites in Jockey's Ridge State Park. On arrival, we are given a sobering lesson on safety precautions for hang-gliding and view a video on the pleasures of human-powered flight. We are fitted with helmets and harnesses that come with apron-like chest padding, then take a short walk to the top of what we are assured is, at 27 metres - roughly the height of a nine-storey building - the tallest natural sand dune on the east coast of the United States. Next thing I know, Claire is being clipped into a hang-glider. She sprints to the edge of the dune, and suddenly, she's in the air, sailing gracefully to a landing, on her feet, at the bottom of the dune, about two blocks away. Unharmed.

"It's like being inside a paper airplane," she shouts up to me while climbing back to the top. As if that is supposed to be in any way reassuring.

Molly has already made it clear she's not leaving terra firma, but I've recklessly agreed to attempt a glide. My patient and cheerful instructor, Andrea Zeger, quickly shows me how to clip in, how to push the control bar outward to gain height and how to land on my feet. I race to the edge of the dune and feel myself leaving the ground, then I'm fluttering to a landing like a butterfly, skidding to a stop on my chest. This is where the padded apron comes in handy. I rise, trembling, my knees knocking, exhilarated. Will I go again? I'm asked. The sound I manage apparently resembles a yes.

By day's end, after three heart-thumping flights, I figure I've been in the air longer and flown farther than Orville on his first attempt: 12 seconds and 120 feet. That's a personal record I don't feel I need to best any time soon. As for Claire, her flights get longer, her landings more graceful.

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