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travel / travel magazine / march 2008

Live & Learn



The hills are olive
By Jennifer Wells with photography by Paolo Destefanis

A week of honest toil and gourmet food in the groves of Tuscany

THE MEDITERRANEAN WINTER is moving in, westerly winds and a greying landscape. The train rolls out of Rome's train station under a heavy sky, as if the heavens are signalling a hunkering down for winter. After all, the grapes have been harvested. It is time to rest.

Not quite yet.



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MAP: STEVEN FICK/CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC
Click map to enlarge
In my purse, I have my husband's handy-dandy pocket Berlitz, copyright 1954. "Please ask the orchestra to play 'Torna a Sorriento,'” the book offers among its list of helpful phrases. Per piacere, chieda all'orchestra di suonare "Torna a Sorriento.”

I am so prepared for this Italian adventure.

In my suitcase, I have a brand-new pair of wind-resistant gloves, the kind of gloves that would be precisely right for a long, cool cycling journey. This is not their intended purpose. Rather, I hope they will be suitably supple for the ever-so-gentle task of picking olives. For, while the grapes are done, the olives await not only their harvest but the transformational offering up of their transcendent golden oil.

I settle on the train and write in my journal: "Silver green. What is the word for that?”

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