Day 7: White Bear Bay and Ramea
With dawn came a spectacular view of the sun breaking through the clouds and sending spotlights
onto the sheer walls of the south coast fiords. We loaded into the Zodiacs and headed up White
Bear Inlet, feasting our eyes on the rock walls and the piercing blue sky punctuated with sweeping
clouds. The wildness of the place was stirring, and I could not help but feel envy for those who
can regularly come here to spend time at their cottages on the water. And I was struck to learn that
anyone in Newfoundland can stake a parcel of land 100’ deep and 50’ wide on any crown land
waterfront and pay an annual fee of only $50, usually with no taxes to be paid.
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I was selected to be one of six passengers who were “screeched in”—that is, certified as honorary Newfoundlanders. |
True to the friendly Newfoundland character, when we approached people’s docks,
rather than shooing us away for invading their privacy, they came down to greet us and
engage in friendly conversation. One jovial middle-aged couple talked about hiking up
onto one of the surrounding mountainsides, shooting a moose, carving it up into several
large chunks, and carrying it back down on their backs.
Late in the day we docked at Ramea, a town located amidst a cluster of islands about
10 km off the south coast. Again we were greeted at the wharf by a crowd of townspeople,
along with a human-sized puffin who accompanied us for the rest of our stay.
That evening the townspeople prepared a huge spread of baked goods and food for us,
including roast moose, which was absolutely delicious). Our onboard musicians joined local
musicians for a spirited dance with the townspeople. I was selected to be one of six passengers
who were “screeched in”—that is, certified as honorary Newfoundlanders. We ate
some sort of small salted fish (which I actually enjoyed), crunched on pieces of hard tack (which
was okay), downed a glass of rum (or some other sort of universal solvent), recited some things we
barely understood, and kissed a fresh cod (better than some of the kissing experiences I have had). |
About
Steve Fick: Artistic Statement
Daily Journal
Day 1: St John’s & Salmonier Nature Park
Day 2: Change Islands & Tilting
Day 3: L’Anse aux Meadows & Raleigh
Day 4: Cape Charles & Battle Harbour, Labrador Coast
Day 5: Gros Morne National Park
Day 6: Grand Codroy Valley
Day 7: White Bear Bay & Ramea
Day 8: Conne River & Francois
Day 9: St.-Pierre, France
Day 10: Return to St. John’s
Related Stories
Ghost
coast
Torngat
Mountains
Resources
www.fick.ca
www.danielpayne.ca
Adventure Canada
Newfoundland & Labrador
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