Day 5: Gros Morne National Park
I greatly enjoyed all the resource people, but as a geographer one of my special treats
was to have Hank Williams on board, the renowned banjo-playing geologist (renowned not for his
banjo — which was not at all bad — but for his revolutionary work sorting out the
previously baffling geology of Newfoundland.) He aptly named his theory about the repeated
opening and closing of the Atlantic Ocean the “Harry Hibbs Effect” after a well-known
Newfoundland accordian player. His wry and well-salted sense of humour kept even the most
“petrophobic” passengers entertained for two one-hour onboard lectures on geology.
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The landscape is almost devoid of plant life, as the abundance of magnesium and potassium and lack of calcium — a result the rocks’ origin in the mantle — are toxic to most plants. |
Gros Morne had been one of the features of the cruise I had most anticipated, but it ended
up being one of the most disappointing. Our hike through the Tablelands was cold, windy and dull,
making photography difficult. Although the views of the barren, ochre-coloured mountainsides were
dramatic, our vantage point was low and we did not see any of the spectacular views that have become
most iconic of the park. After the on-board lectures by Hank Williams, the mini-lectures given by
the park interpreters were lacklustre and not very informative. It was nonetheless astonishing to
reflect on the origin of the Tablelands — immense slabs of rock from the earth’s mantel —
the layer below the crust — that had been thrust up and exposed on the earth’s surface
during the tectonic collisions. The landscape is almost devoid of plant life, as the abundance of magnesium
and potassium and lack of calcium — a result the rocks’ origin in the mantle — are toxic to most plants.
Our visit ended with another concert and some lively rounds of square dancing at the local arts centre. |
About
Steve Fick: Artistic Statement
Daily Journal
Day 1: St John’s & Salmonier Nature Park
Day 2: Change Islands & Tilting
Day 3: L’Anse aux Meadows & Raleigh
Day 4: Cape Charles & Battle Harbour, Labrador Coast
Day 5: Gros Morne National Park
Day 6: Grand Codroy Valley
Day 7: White Bear Bay & Ramea
Day 8: Conne River & Francois
Day 9: St.-Pierre, France
Day 10: Return to St. John’s
Related Stories
Ghost
coast
Torngat
Mountains
Resources
www.fick.ca
www.danielpayne.ca
Adventure Canada
Newfoundland & Labrador
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