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travel / adventure / guides / summer 2004
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Four great getaways you'll find on the New Brunswick coast of Canada's legendary bay
BY GILDA SWARTZ
Even the most experienced Atlantic Canada vacationers often underestimate New Brunswick. For many, it's the byway to other
oceanfront
destinations. Yet New Brunswick, with its wildlife, scenery, history and world-famous Bay of Fundy, has an allure all
its own. The ebb and flow of tides along
the spectacular Fundy Coast give the region a relaxing life rhythm. Besides being one of the province's most visually
dramatic areas, it's also a one-of-a-kind
place that allows you to discover its treasures in unhurried and relaxed surroundings.
My advice: this summer, let the road stop at any of these fantasic Fundy destinations.
Grand Manan | St. Martins |
Fundy Footpath | Albert County Caves
Grand Manan
The ferry ride from Blacks Harbour to North Head on Grand Manan Island is a worthwhile trip in itself. The sea air is
guaranteed to cure what
ails you, and if you're lucky, the boat will be escorted by wheeling seabirds, seals and, occasionally, whales. Its 19th-century
lighthouses,
salty sea captains and dramatic fog-wrapped coast add to the island's unrivalled charm along with picturesque fishing villages,
comfortable old
inns, a first-class bakery and miles of trails that, in summertime, are lined with berry-filled bushes. There are also organized activities for
nature-loving tourists, such as sea kayaking, biking and bird- and whale-watching trips.
The Grand Manan nightlife is like nowhere else on Earth. Camp under the stars at a cliffside clearing called the
Hole-in-the-Wall Park and
Campground, and relax to nature's lullaby. Remember: you heard it here first. This little-known area attracts primarily
biology students and
whale lovers. Why? The campground sits directly above a cove where whales congregate nightly for an awe-inspiring show of
breaching and blowing.
Toll-free: 1-888-525-1655
Fax: (506) 833-2008
Web sites:
www.grandmanannb.com and
www.grandmanancamping.com
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St. Martins
Located about 30 minutes by car from Saint John and 90 minutes from Moncton, St. Martins was settled in 1783 and began as a successful
shipbuilding, shipping and fishing community. Today, its elaborate Victorian homes, surrounded by spectacular cliffs and beaches, are reminders
of the wealthy captains and shipbuilders who once thrived there. While fishing boats continue to rise and fall with the tides, the
postcard beauty of the area is irresistible to lovers of the outdoors. It's the gateway to the Fundy Trail, a groomed path that follows the coast, and to miles
of secluded beaches. The St. Martins Sea Caves - carved out of the mesmerizing red sandstone cliffs that look like the cross-section of a rich chocolate cake -
are exposed at low tide. Despite these unique attractions, you can take to the woods or water and rarely see other visitors. Stay overnight in one of the small
historic inns, and you won't find a busload of tourists at the door, although you might share the halls with a ghostly sea captain.
Telephone: (506) 833-2010
Fax: (506) 833-2008
Web site: www.stmartinscanada.com
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Bay of Fundy
is a visually
dramatic area and a one-of-a-kind place where you can discover
New Brunswick's treasures at an unhurried pace.
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Fundy Footpath
Some say the Fundy Footpath - a 42-kilometre trail that starts at the boundary of Fundy National Park and continues to the Big Salmon River,
near St. Martins - is New Brunswick's best-kept secret. An extension of the better-known Fundy Trail, it will delight you with its high cliffs,
rolling fog, spectacular views and solitude as you backpack for an exhilarating four or five days. As you hike up and down the trail, you might
find yourself walking close to a cliff side and taking in the views of the bay, fording swift streams and climbing cabled wooden stairs, or you
could end up in an area with 180-to-200-year-old trees. You will enjoy hours of quiet observation, as the Footpath is part of the Acadian forest
region, home to more than 30 species of trees, 45 species of mammals and 285 species of birds.
Toll-free: 1-866-fundy trail
Web site: www.fundytrailparkway.com
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Albert County Caves
Albert County, a spectacular area of the Fundy Coast, is most famous for the Hopewell Rocks, giant "flowerpots" that have been carved from
the cliff by the tides and appear only during low tide. If you can handle being one of thousands streaming toward the beach at low tide, pay
a visit. But if you prefer cool to crowds and if the idea of exploring dark, damp, close spaces doesn't cause you to panic, Fundy has some great
caves. The county, one of the best places in New Brunswick to cave, is home to the South White and North White caves, the Lost Brook and
Underground Lake caves and Berryton Cave. Even on hot days, cave temperatures are only 3 to 4 degrees C - refreshing oases, indeed. The caves
range from easy to challenging, and each has its own attractions. You'll need sturdy footwear, dirt-worthy pants and a long-sleeved shirt, tough
gloves, knee pads, a headlamp, food and water. Visit the caves with an experienced caver or an organized tour, such as those offered by Baymount
Outdoor Adventures. Never explore alone.
Toll-free: 1-877-601-2660
Web sites: www.baymountadventures.com and www.cancaver.ca
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A lifelong birder, hiker, camper and all-round fan of the great outdoors, Gilda Swartz is a senior editor at
Canadian Living magazine.
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