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July/August 2009 issue	In this issue Table of Contents Feature: St. Lawrence Seaway Feature: Park wardens Feature: Summer camps Feature: Iqaluit arts The Inside Story Editor’s Notebook Reverberations À la carte

I was nine when I first went to Camp Stephens, a YMCA summer camp in Northern Ontario. We took a bus from Winnipeg to Lake of the Woods and were dispatched onto a huge lawn for a lecture on ideals and tradition and the epic grandeur of the Canadian wilderness.

The wooden cabins we slept in were spartan and alien, and that first night, I heard what sounded like two campers sobbing into their sour pillows. We swam and hiked and carved driftwood-shaped things out of driftwood, but most important, we learned how to canoe. We learned the J-stroke and the C-stroke for silent running, how to conserve energy by feathering the paddle and how to drink from it. We deliberately tipped our canoes in the middle of the lake and learned how to get them upright.

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