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magazine / ja09

July/August 2009 issue


FEATURE
Iqaluit arts



Iqaluit in the groove
As summer dawns, performers from around the world descend on Nunavut’s capital for an eclectic celebration of the arts
By Dave Bidini with photography by Patrice Halley

The airport in Iqaluit looks like a giant yellow Lego castle. Locals call it the “butterscotch palace,” sitting, as it does, on the grey-brown tundra. The day I fly in, the castle is busy with Newfoundlanders and Labradorians leaving on a month’s furlough from working in northern mines, a wayward Korean film crew and Inuit men and women. Mexican circus performers have arrived for the fourth annual Alianait Arts Festival, an 11-day celebration of art, music, film, storytelling and theatre. I am here to perform at the festival too, but I feel as if I’ve wandered into a Tom Waits video shoot.


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This is my first time in Iqaluit. The city sits at the edge of Koojesee Inlet, on Frobisher Bay (Iqaluit’s old Anglo name), where innumerable ice floes float in the water like crackers in a bowl of soup. Iqaluit itself looks as if God had scattered Monopoly pieces over the land, then headed to more sensible places. A few new buildings — the pastel blue hospital, shaped like a monstrous pillow mint, and the windowless Nakasuk School — lord over modest row houses and weathered buildings. Still, it is the open waters of the bay and the great hill that rises above downtown that characterize Iqaluit’s geography.

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