Hans Island
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Hans' history
Noted Arctic historian and published author Kenn Harper walks us through Hans' past so we may understand its possible future.

By Kenn Harper

The question one is inclined to ask is not, "Who owns it?" but rather, "Who would want it?"
The island is barren and steep-sided. No-one lives there. No-one except scientific parties ever have. The question one is inclined to ask is not, "Who owns it?" but rather, "Who would want it?" But this island is different from other interruptions in the surface of the Arctic sea. This is Hans Island, two square kilometers of rock situated at 80° 49' N and 66° 26' W, smack-dab in the middle of Kennedy Channel, mid-way between Ellesmere Island and Greenland. It has become the focus of a bizarre border dispute between Canada and Denmark, an issue that has simmered for three decades and finally boiled over in 2005.

CANADA'S CLAIM

Canada showed Hans Island as Canadian territory on a map for the first time only in 1967. Six years later, during negotiations on a Danish-Canadian agreement over division of the continental shelf, Canada voiced its claim to Hans Island but efforts to reach a solution regarding ownership were unsuccessful. Both parties agreed to stop the median line referred to in that agreement at the low-water mark on the south coast of the island and start it again at the low-water mark on the north shore. Because these lines reach the island, the agreement noted that "the island has no territorial sea."

In 1983, both countries signed an agreement on co-operation in marine environmental matters. They also considered a reciprocal arrangement for processing applications to conduct research on and around Hans Island. Although that agreement was not signed, the respective ministers reaffirmed their common interest in avoiding acts prejudicial to future negotiations. But the unsigned agreement had already been violated.

That year I met a scientist from Dome Petroleum in Resolute, Northwest Territories. Embroidered in bold letters on his knitted Inuit-style hat was the name HANS ISLAND, N.W.T. I asked him about his sartorial claim to an island that I regarded as part of Greenland and was surprised to learn that he had just spent the summer on the island doing ice research.

Dome Petroleum, it turned out, had been doing research on this tiny island for some years. It planned to build offshore artificial islands on which to position drilling rigs in the Beaufort Sea, 1,700 kilometres away. Hans Island was a surrogate for an artificial island. Huge ice floes, some several kilometers in diameter and up to eight metres thick, flow southward each summer through the large funnel that is Kennedy Channel. The first obstacle they meet is Hans Island. With its steep sides, it provided a perfect location in which to determine how strong an artificial island needed to be to withstand the force of multi-year ice coming down from the Arctic Ocean.

BATTLE OF THE BOTTLES

Canada’s unyielding position today has more to do with its claim to the Northwest Passage than to Hans Island itself.
In 1984, I wrote an article on Dome’s occupation of Hans Island for the local newspaper in Qaanaaq, Greenland, where I lived. A Danish paper picked up the article. Denmark’s Minister for Greenland immediately flew to the island where he raised a Danish flag and left a bottle of Denmark’s finest schnapps at its base. Thus began the battle of the bottles. Subsequent Canadian and Danish visitors to the island took turns leaving bottles of their respective favourite libations, erecting their nation’s flag and removing that of their opponent.

The dispute is perplexing. Because it has already been agreed that the island will have no territorial sea, there is no possibility to extend one or the other nation’s claims for offshore drilling or fishing rights. One suspects that Canada’s unyielding position today has more to do with its claim to the Northwest Passage than to Hans Island itself. Canada appears to feel that losing its claim to Hans Island may set a precedent for challenge to the more important trans-oceanic passage through the heart of the High Arctic. The United States, for one, has always claimed the Northwest Passage to be an international waterway.

Neither country can claim Hans Island on the basis of historical occupation. Canada bases its claim on the island’s British discovery and Canada’s subsequent acquisition of Britain’s Arctic territories. The problem with that claim is that the island was not discovered by the British. It was discovered and named on August 29, 1871, by an American, Charles Francis Hall, as his ship, Polaris, was northward bound in Kennedy Channel.

Hall named the island for Hans Hendrik, a Greenlandic Inuit member of his expedition. Hans, from southern Greenland, had worked as a hunter and guide for two previous American expeditions to remote northwestern Greenland. He returned once after Hall’s expedition, this final excursion being with George Nares’s British expedition in 1875, but this was four years after Hall had named the island.

In Hall’s time, Danish sovereignty did not extend to northern Greenland. Its exploration had been carried out by Americans. It was not until 1909 that the Greenlandic church established a mission at North Star Bay. Danes established a trading post there the following year. The United States gave up any claims it may have had in northern Greenland in 1916 when it paid Denmark $25,000,000 for the Danish West Indies (now the Virgin Islands). With that, Denmark extended its sovereignty to all of Greenland.

"...NINE-TENTHS OF THE LAW..."

One of the tests of a country’s claim to territory is the use it makes of that land. No Canadian Inuit have ever hunted or routinely travelled in the area of Hans Island. In fact, no Canadian Inuit lived permanently on adjacent Ellesmere Island in historic times until 1953. But the Inughuit of northwestern Greenland historically used the area surrounding Hans Island as part of their traditional hunting grounds. Moreover, they have a name for this tiny island. They call it Tartupaluk in recognition of its kidney-like shape.

In June of 1915, three men fought their way south by dogsled through the ice-choked waters of Kennedy Channel. Part of an American expedition to discover Robert Peary’s chimerical Crocker Land, they were on their way to the expedition’s base at Etah, Greenland. The three men, two Inughuit and one American, made good progress until just north of a tiny island in the middle of the channel. Then, the American later wrote, "just a mile or so north of that little island our progress was stopped by a pressure-ridge about forty feet high that seemed to extend quite across the channel…" Ittukusuk, Asiajuk and their companion laboured to reach the island, and climbed to its top to reconnoiter the route ahead. In doing so, they were using Hans Island for what it historically had been to the farthest northern Inuit in the world – a landmark, a beacon, a hill to climb to survey ice conditions ahead or to search for polar bears.