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magazine / ma07

March/April 2007 issue


EXPLORER
 


Rollin' on the River
A second-hand canoe, an easy breeze and a lazy paddle along New Brunswick's Saint John River
Excerpt of story by Mark Anthony Jarman with photography by Brian Atkinson

Staring out my window at the Saint John River, I had water on the brain. I knew I had to get out there, learn this other indigo world that pulses under eagles and turkey vultures. Wake waves hitting shore were so close that my lunatic terrier barked at them, yet I had no boat, so the waters remained a mystery, a foreign realm a foot away from my muddy shoes.

Then a friend sold me her Old Town canoe, a shiny blue crescent of Kevlar laminate. It lacks the authentic swagger and romance of birchbark or canvas, and it's a devil to turn in the wind, but it is tough as nails and travels over dew. I can carry it across the road, shove it down the tall grass to the river, step in and float.



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I do not pretend to be an expert canoeist. I do not know the difference between flatwater paddles and whitewater paddles. I do not know the J stroke. I just dip the paddle, and I get where I'm going. I muddle through, the same approach I take to bass guitar and matters of the heart. I am not a coureur de bois, not a Grizzly Adams outdoors hero, but I am on the water, a citizen of the scalloped waves and easy breezes and diamond light on rolling swells.

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