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magazine / jf07
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January/February 2007 issue |
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The almighty Bruce
Winding along the stony spine of southern Ontario, the Bruce Trail is
a sanctuary, a songwriter’s muse and Canada’s most popular footpath
Excerpt of story by Laurie Gough
Standing on a limestone shelf, I plunge headfirst into Georgian Bay’s aquamarine depths. As I split open the water, I recall that this first instant
of paralyzing cold is always the surprising part — the tropical blue-green
of the water fools me every time. I’m not in Cuba or Fiji. I’m
in Ontario on the Bruce Peninsula and I can see straight through the crystal-clear
water down to the stone floor that stretches along the spine of southern Ontario,
the Niagara Escarpment.
I’ve spent the afternoon strolling the Bruce Trail, Canada’s
oldest and longest marked hiking trail, which runs the length of the Escarpment
from Queenston to Tobermory. I’ve meandered up and down near the trail’s
most famous spot, the water caves of The Grotto, and chased my three year-old
son Quinn along the rocky shore. It’s usually a chore to get him to
walk half a block in the city, but here, where the terrain is craggy and full
of crevices, cliffs and caves, he tears around with glee.
Underwater: no shouts of children, no hikers’ chatter, no barking dogs.
Only a watery silence. I am 10 years old again, holding my breath and swimming
to see how far I can get, gliding through memories of one of my favourite
places on Earth.
The Bruce Trail was established in the early 1960s, and as a child, I hiked
a different part of it every weekend with my family. In my twenties I would
go on an annual pilgrimage to the Bruce Peninsula, starting south of Cyprus
Lake at High Dump — not the most romantically named bay from which to
embark on a pilgrimage — and walking 20 kilometres north to camp and
swim at a beach full of whitewashed rocks before continuing the next day to
Tobermory, the trail’s end. Now, years later, my husband Rob and I take
Quinn camping, cross-country skiing and hiking on the trail, hoping it will
cultivate a love of the natural world in him, just as it did in me.
For the rest of this story, visit your local newsstand or go to our store to buy this issue.
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